Deadly rip currents, rough surf from Henri through the weekend for the Outer Banks

Surf starting to increase along the beach off Hatteras village on Aug. 19, 2021. [courtesy SurfChex/Outer Beaches Realty]

Henri is forecast to become a hurricane before it passes between the Outer Banks and Bermuda on Saturday, and waves from the distant tropical cyclone have already started reaching the beaches with dangerous rip currents already occurring.

A high rip current risk for today from Oregon Inlet to Ocracoke, including Pea Island, Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, Avon, Buxton, Frisco and Hatteras village. Everyone stay out of the ocean.

There is a moderate risk of rip currents from the state line to Oregon Inlet. Only experienced surf swimmers should enter the ocean, with a flotation device, along Carova Beach, Swan Beach, Corolla, Duck, Southern Shores, Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, Nags Head and Bodie Island.

All beaches will experience more frequent, deadly rip currents and pounding shore break through the weekend, and No Swimming flags will likely be posted.

The projected track of Henri has it eventually turning northward Friday as a hurricane. It is expected to pass off our coast by around 300 miles with maximum sustained winds of 90 mph.

Seas just offshore will build to 4 to 6 feet on Friday, and then are expected to run between 5 and 9 feet on Saturday and into Sunday. Some minor beach erosion and nuisance overwash at high tide is possible at trouble spots along the Outer Banks.

The season’s eighth tropical cyclone will then move towards New England and graze Cape Cod on Monday.

After a hot and humid day Thursday, a weather system unrelated to Henri is forecast to bring excessive rainfall to northeastern North Carolina on Friday and Saturday. A few pop-up storms are possible Sunday and Monday.

National Weather Service forecast for Nags Head, as of Thursday 10 a.m.:

Sunny, with a high near 90. Heat index values as high as 102. South wind 5 to 8 mph.
Partly cloudy, with a low around 78. South wind 9 to 14 mph.
A chance of showers and thunderstorms, mainly after 9am. Partly sunny, with a high near 87. South wind around 8 mph. Chance of precipitation is 40%. New rainfall amounts between a tenth and quarter of an inch, except higher amounts possible in thunderstorms.
Friday Night
A chance of showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 75. Southeast wind around 6 mph becoming southwest after midnight. Chance of precipitation is 50%. New rainfall amounts between a quarter and half of an inch possible.
A chance of showers and thunderstorms. Partly sunny, with a high near 88. Northwest wind around 6 mph becoming southwest in the afternoon. Chance of precipitation is 50%. New rainfall amounts between a tenth and quarter of an inch, except higher amounts possible in thunderstorms.
Saturday Night
A chance of showers and thunderstorms, mainly before 3am. Partly cloudy, with a low around 74. Chance of precipitation is 50%. New rainfall amounts of less than a tenth of an inch, except higher amounts possible in thunderstorms.
A chance of showers and thunderstorms after 3pm. Mostly sunny, with a high near 90. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Sunday Night
A chance of showers and thunderstorms before 9pm. Partly cloudy, with a low around 75. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
A chance of showers and thunderstorms after 3pm. Mostly sunny, with a high near 90. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Monday Night
A chance of showers and thunderstorms before 9pm. Partly cloudy, with a low around 74. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Sunny, with a high near 88.
Tuesday Night
Partly cloudy, with a low around 75.
Mostly sunny, with a high near 89.

This story originally appeared on OBXToday.com. Read More local stories here.